Frequently Asked Questions

Not always. Early October still gives tall fescue some growing time, but freezing nights typically begin around October 31, so seedlings have less time to root. For lawns we prefer late August through September. For construction sites that must be covered before winter, we can seed in October and add a temporary cover grass or blankets.

For most sunny and partly shaded yards, a turf-type tall fescue blend, sometimes with a little Kentucky bluegrass. The University of Missouri Extension rates tall fescue the most suitable lawn grass in the state. If you want a warm-season lawn, bermudagrass can be seeded in late spring, but zoysia usually has to be sodded or plugged.

National cost guides disagree. HomeAdvisor gives a typical range of $650 to $2,200 with $1,000 as the average, and HomeGuide puts it at $0.12-$0.35 a square foot. Slopes, soil prep and access shift those figures, and the amount you pay is the one on the written quote we give you after walking the yard.

It is not instant. You will water for several weeks and wait about four to six weeks before mowing, and seeding outside the right season raises the risk. It also needs decent soil underneath; slurry cannot fix compacted subsoil or a yard that funnels water. Sod is faster, and dry seed is cheaper.

A standard mulch holds well in ordinary rain on gentle ground. A downpour concentrated off a roof or a steep bank can still cut channels. That is why we fix drainage first and use heavier mulch, bonded fiber matrix or blankets on slopes.

If the yard is mostly weeds or bare, yes: we strip or kill the old growth, loosen the soil and fine grade before spraying. If a decent lawn is just thin, overseeding after aeration is often the better and cheaper choice.

Short, light waterings for about the first three weeks so the mulch never dries out; when it is hot, that can mean two or three rounds a day. Once the grass is up, water less often but deeper. We leave written instructions for your yard.

Published national figures span about $0.07-$0.35 a square foot, and HomeAdvisor puts a typical job at $650 to $2,200. Topsoil, grading and slopes add to that. We write up an estimate after walking your yard.

Keep off it until the grass is up and about four inches tall, usually four to six weeks. Light foot traffic to move hoses is fine if you step carefully.

We can, but if the old lawn is mostly weeds we recommend killing or stripping it first. If it is just thin, aeration and overseeding is cheaper.

Often, yes. Many lots are left with clay subsoil at the surface after grading. We check on site and only recommend topsoil where it is needed.

Tall fescue tolerates moderate shade, and fine fescues can be added for heavier shade. Deep shade under dense trees is hard for any grass.

Federal rules require stormwater permit coverage for construction disturbing an acre or more, or less if it is part of a larger plan. Many cities also have their own grading or land disturbance permits. Your engineer or the city will confirm what applies; we work to the plan you are given.

Seed will not grow in frozen ground, but we can apply hydromulch or blankets to hold soil and come back to seed in spring or early fall.

It depends on the distance to water, the slope and the mulch rate. We give a realistic schedule in the quote after seeing the site.

Yes, on projects where we can meet the specification and bid requirements.

Final grade complete, debris cleared, and the area free of traffic. Tell us about any irrigation lines or utility trenches still to be dug.

On a gentle bank, yes. On steeper or longer slopes we use a heavier mulch, bonded fiber matrix or blankets to keep seed and soil in place until roots take hold.

No. Straw and coir blankets decay over time and the grass comes up through them. Some are made with plastic netting that lasts longer, so where mowing or wildlife is a concern we choose biodegradable netting instead.

We stabilize the slope above the creek. Work in the channel may need permits from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and your city, and sometimes an engineer's design.

Grass usually comes up within a few weeks in season, but a slope takes most of a growing season to root in fully. The blanket or mulch carries it until then.

Many cities require perimeter controls on building permits that disturb soil. Your permit conditions or the building department will say. If it is required, we can install it before you dig.

Until the disturbed area is stabilized, usually meaning grass is established to the standard on your plan. Then it comes out and the strip gets seeded.

Usually because it was not trenched, the posts are too far apart, or it is across a channel where water concentrates. We fix the cause, not just the fabric.

We do. Inlet protection is usually part of the same plan, and we install and maintain both.

Water standing near the foundation, a wet basement after storms, soggy spots that stay wet for days, or soil washing across the yard are common signs. We can check the grade on a site visit.

That comes down to what is on the lot today. We dig test holes and recommend a depth only where the surface is subsoil or debris.

We use small equipment and plan access to avoid tree roots and pavement where possible, and we will point out risks before we start.

Yes, for downspout extensions, shallow drains and swales tied to a grading and seeding job.

For tall fescue, the strongest window runs from late August through September. Spring overseeding can work, but young grass often struggles once summer heat arrives.

Usually yes. Aeration opens the soil so seed reaches it, and it helps on compacted clay. It is one of the cheapest ways to improve seed contact.

Overseed when most of the lawn is still grass you want to keep. When weeds or bare dirt cover more than about half of it, a renovation gives a more even result.

Yes. We loosen the soil, add topsoil if needed and spray the patch. Keep pets off until the new grass is established.